Last Updated on January 1, 2024
Oaxaca, Mexico is a magical place – and it is most magical during the annual Day of the Dead celebrations! The Day of the Dead (or Dia de los Muertos) is a festival celebrated in Mexico on October 31, November 1 and November 2, 2024. During this time, locals believe that the veil between the world of the spirits and the living is lifted, so deceased loved ones can travel back for a visit.
Mexico City is home to the largest Dia de los Muertos celebrations, including the famous Mexico City Day of the Dead Parade. But Oaxaca has some of the most spiritual and unique Dia de los Muertos traditions.
Guided tours for Day of the Dead in Oaxaca sell out each year, but it is possible to visit on your own. You can also find organized day trips to communities preparing for the holiday, as well as tours for cemetery visits! I have a few to recommend for you.
Read on for my best tips on how to visit Oaxaca City for Day of the Dead: what to do, where to stay, and how to have an authentic Day of the Dead experience in Oaxaca!
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Oaxaca Dia de los Muertos: Quick Guide
Dates: The official dates of the holiday are October 31 – November 1, but preparations and celebrations begin days before and continue for a few days after.
Events schedule: The official events in Oaxaca for 2023 began on October 25 and continued through November 2. I’ll post an updated calendar as soon as one is available.
Guided group tours: Each year there are guided small group tours from G Adventures and Nat Geo as well as a Oaxaca to Puerto Escondido tour (ages 18-39) for Day of the Dead.
Day trips: Zapotec Travel organizes responsible Day of the Dead travel experiences with a rotation of 50 indigenous small businesses. Find information here later this year and contact them on Instagram.
Day trips: En Via is a nonprofit foundation that offers day trips to experience Day of the Dead traditions and customs in local communities. They also offer weekly community tours year round.
Day trips: Where Sidewalks End Oaxaca cemetery tours on Oct. 31, Nov. 1 and Nov. 2 in 2023. Also check out their other immersive Oaxaca experiences.
Note: these are the only tours I can personally recommend, because I have followed and know these businesses. In Oaxaca, you will likely meet additional tour operators in person. In general, I don’t recommend booking Day of the Dead tours on Viator or Get Your Guide, since the tours only happen once a year and there are no reviews.
Hotels: Looking for where to stay for Day of the Dead? Check out my guide to where to stay in Oaxaca.
Save this Oaxaca Dia de los Muertos guide for for updates and tips during your trip!
Where is Oaxaca?
Oaxaca City (pronounced “wah-HAH-kah” with the emphasis on the “HAH”) is the capital of the state of the same name, located in Southwestern Mexico. The area is known for indigenous cultures including Zapotecs and Mixtecs, as well as historical sites at Monte Albán and Mitla. Plus, it has stunning beaches and world-class surfing along its Pacific coast. And, of course, its Day of the Dead celebrations!
Dia de Los Muertos Traditions
The first thing that anyone will tell you about the real meaning of this holiday is that Day of the Dead is not just “Mexican Halloween.” Dia de los Muertos is an example of pre-Hispanic cultural traditions and Christian holidays blending together: Aztec death festivals combined with Catholic All Saints’ Eve, All Saints’ Day, and All Souls’ Day.
During these days, locals believe that the gap between our world and the spiritual world opens, and they invite their loved ones back for a celebration. This is done with ofrendas, or offerings, placed on altars in homes, schools, and cemeteries.
Altars usually have several tiers and are decorated with pictures of the deceased, sugar skulls, crosses, candles, papel picado, and flowers. Fruit, nuts, special pan de muertos bread and even beer are also offered – things the departed would have enjoyed in life.
Copal incense is burned to purify the air, and trails of yellow marigold and magenta cockscomb flowers help the dead find their way back from the spirit world.
The dead are believed to consume the essence of the offerings, giving them strength after their journey. During the holiday, families take time to prepare for the holiday together. Along with the returned spirits, they also celebrate as a family with food, music, and drinks.
Dates of Oaxaca Day of the Dead Celebrations for 2024
While many cities stretch their celebrations into a week or longer, and all have different traditions, the main days of the festival are:
- October 31 is All Saints’ Eve, and it’s traditional to visit cemeteries and family graves. The spirits of little children, angelitos, are believed to return this first night and spend the next day with their families.
- November 1 is All Saints’ Day, and is celebrated again at cemeteries, parades and other festivities. Many believe that this is the night that adult spirits return.
- November 2 is All Souls’ Day, and generally a quieter day of celebrations. Many residents go to church and also visit cemeteries again.
Day of the Dead in Oaxaca 2024 Daily Event Schedule
For an idea of what to expect and to help you plan, see below for the full 2023 Day of the Dead in Oaxaca daily events calendar. (Click an image to open it and scroll the through gallery in full-view.) I’ll post the updated version as soon as it is available – usually a few weeks before the holiday.
Oaxaca Day of the Dead Traditions
In Oaxaca, preparations start a week before the start of Dia de los Muertos (or, as you soon learn, what the locals refer to simply as “Dia de Muertos” or just “Muertos”). Markets around the city begin offering all the supplies needed to prepare for the holiday. Families shop at markets and return home to begin preparations and build their altars.
Altars in Oaxaca
Ropes of marigold flowers appear over many streets, and you’ll see local businesses setting up altars as well. Altars are one of the most important Oaxaca Day of the Dead traditions. They feature all the items common in other areas of Mexico, but add the mole that is central to Oaxacan cuisine, lots of marigolds (cempasuchil) and cockscomb flowers, chocolate, and local fruits.
Sand Tapestries
Oaxaca has a flourishing arts scene, which also plays an important part in celebrations. Artists create beautiful Day of the Dead sand tapestries known as tapetes de arena in front of many altars.
Colored sand is used to make detailed scenes of skeletons, saints, and more – and you’ll even find a sand tapestry contest! My favorites were simpler tapestries created from rice, seeds, dried beans, and flowers.
Visiting Cemeteries
Throughout the days of Dia de los Muertos, another important tradition is visiting cemeteries (called a panteón or cementerio). Here you’ll find families cleaning and decorating graves, then celebrating with food and music.
There will be daytime events throughout the city such as concerts, costume contests, and music and dance performances.
Comparsas
During the Day of the Dead celebration in Oaxaca, you’ll also see comparsas. These are traditional parades that symbolize return of the dead. The comparsas include costumed performers and marching bands that wind their ways around the streets of the city center.
You’ll see them on the pedestrian street (Calle Macedonio Alcalá) and through the zócalo.
Expect to see more on November 1, when the dead are believed to have returned, but you will also see them at the start of the festival. The cutest ones are the parades of kids in costumes!
Booking Your Trip for Dia de los Muertos
Day tours, hotels, and even flights book VERY EARLY to Oaxaca for the Dia de los Muertos celebrations each year! I recommend booking as early as January for the best selection of hotels and flights. This includes flights from Oaxaca to beaches following the festival.
Staying in the city center will make it easier to get to the events – check my post on where to stay in Oaxaca for the best hotel recommendations.
For daytime Day of the Dead tours to neighboring communities that are preparing for the holiday, check out these options below.
How to Get to Oaxaca City:
- Fly into Xoxocotlán International Airport (OAX), or take a bus from Mexico City (about six hours)
- You can book a shared shuttle to the city upon arrival, after exiting customs. Pay at the counter and take your receipt outside to the drivers. Or grab a taxi outside the airport.
Oaxaca City Hotels for Day of the Dead
When visiting Oaxaca for Day of the Dead, I recommend staying at hotels in the Oaxaca city center, so you’ll be within easy walking distance of all the events and celebrations. Again, book early, because many hotels sell out months in advance. Grab my best bets here!
2024 Oaxaca Day of the Dead Itinerary
Before The Holiday: Explore Oaxaca!
Walk around the city. Visit the Cathedral (a block from the zócalo) and pick up a festival schedule from the Oaxaca tourism booth there. Stop in hotels and shops to see the altars, sand tapestries, and other decorations.
Visit markets like Mercado Benito Juarez and 20 de Noviembre to try local foods and shop for souvenirs.
Here are some suggested activities to keep you busy leading up to the event; and key events of the festival for you to schedule around.
Be sure to read my guide to the best things to do in Oaxaca to help build the best itinerary for you.
October 27: Get to Know Oaxaca + Magna Comparsa
Head to the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzman to see what’s happening in Oaxaca! You can visit the church with its ornate gilded interior, and look around the Jardin del Panuelito (small garden adjacent) where there is often an exhibition of altars and a festival stage.
While you’re there, you might want to visit the Museum of Cultures of Oaxaca which adjoins the church.
Consider a food tour, cooking class, or walking tour to meet other travelers and to get to know the city.
This Oaxaca markets tour is the perfect intro to Oaxacan cuisine and street food!
If you’d like to try something active, set off on a bike tour to explore street art!
Late afternoon: Try to see the Magna Comparsa, the Grand Parade, which kicks off the celebrations. In 2023 it was scheduled to begin at 6PM at the Parque El Llano, continue down Calle de Manuel Garcia Vigil and end at 8PM at the Plaza de La Danza. You’ll see people lining up along the route – camp out for a good spot!
Since it’s your first night in Oaxaca, be sure to stop in one of the city’s bars for some mezcal! Try Mezcalería In Situ, or Sabina Sabe for cocktails. (Pro tip: locals sip and savor mezcal – never throw it back as a shot!)
October 28: Full Day Outing
There usually aren’t any big festival events scheduled today, so it’s a great opportunity for a full day outing! Book a day trip with Zapotec Travel or check out my recommendations below.
Hierve El Agua: See the beauty of its pools and calcified “waterfalls,” plus a hike, waterfall swim, and visit to a a family-owned mezcal distillery.
Paths of Mezcal: Visit the ruins of Mitla, meet Zapotec weavers in Teotitlán del Valle, and learn from producers of artisanal mezcal.
Ultimate Day Trip: Check off many of the region’s top sights with this tour to Mitla, Teotitlan del Valle, El Tule, and a mezcal distillery in one day!
October 29: Half Day Trip + Local Eats
This is another day when festival events are light, so a half-day outing to nearby Monte Alban fits nicely into the schedule.
Monte Alban: Half-day tour to see the nearby ruins with transportation and a guide.
Altars: Stop in to local shops, restaurants, and hotels throughout the city to see their ofrendas, or altars with offerings.
Explore more of Oaxaca’s food and mezcal scene in the evening.
October 30: City Sights
Discover more of the city with a visit to the Ethnobotanical Garden. English tours meet Mon-Sat at 11AM, while there are many more options of tours in Spanish.
Grab lunch and hit some of Oaxaca’s museums, like the Museum of Cultures, the Textile Museum, or MACO (contemporary art).
For dinner, gnosh around town on a street food tour.
October 31: Sand Tapestries + Cemetery Visits
Get ready for cemetery visits tonight! Take it easy with some light sightseeing around town or a half day outing.
Tapetes de Arena: Try to see the start of the sand tapestry competition! Keep an eye on the festival schedule to see the time and location.
At night, visit Cemeteries in Xoxocotlan, San Felipe or Atzompa. Near the zócalo you’ll also see comparsas in the evening with giant puppets (mojigangas) and fireworks.
The cemetery Xoxocotlan (known locally as Xoxo – pronounced “ho-ho”) is crowded and crazy, but not to be missed.
You’ll find tour operators in the zócalo offering bus tours, but based on experience, I don’t recommend this. So many people try to get to Xoxo at the same time, it creates a huge traffic jam from the city all the way to the cemetery. It’s even more difficult to get through in a bus.
Instead, book a tour with WSE Tours ahead of time, find a reputable local tour company, or even use local transport.
I recommend taking a taxi or colectivo (shared van) to Xoxo, unless you can find a small group tour. It’s only about 6 miles (10 km) from Oaxaca City to Xoxo. There are actually two cemeteries here, about 6 blocks apart, and the larger one has the bigger celebration.
All continue until very late, so you can even arrive around 10-11pm and have plenty of time to take in the experience.
Pro tip: You’ll encounter cute kiddos in costume at cemeteries and comparsas! It’s nice to offer pesos if they are “trick or treating” rather than candy (although candy might be welcome!). I also often travel with small sheets of stickers since they’re easy to carry.
November 1: See Comparsas and Visit the Panteon General or San Agustin Etla
During the day and early evening, spend more time exploring the city, keep an eye out for comparsas, and visit the Panteon General de San Miguel. Near the Cathedral, there are usually children’s parades on November 1.
Tapetes de arena and altars: Don’t forget to keep an eye out for sand tapestries and altars as you wander the town! You won’t want to miss the finished tapetes from the competition.
At night, plan another cemetery visit to the Panteon General.
Or, if you’re really brave, head out to the nearby town of San Agustin Etla, Oaxaca (about a half hour from Oaxaca City by taxi) for the wildest Dia de los Muertos festivities.
The Day of the Dead celebration in San Augustín Etla is like no other! Nearby communities prepare for months with marching bands and wild costumes, and on November 1, they march through the streets of the town all night.
These comparsas (known as muerteadas) begin at one home, where the musicians and characters are offered food and drinks while they wait for the dead to join them. Later they converge in streets and schoolyard for “Bring It On”-style battles.
I found a small tour group to take me to Etla which, unfortunately, I can’t recommend as it seems to have closed. Our group (all women – three Americans, three Japanese, and one German) were the only “obvious” tourists we saw all night. But the locals seemed thrilled to have us there!
If you can find a tour to take you, it’s something you can only experience in Oaxaca. If not, and you speak Spanish, you can make friends there easily by taking along a bottle of mezcal and some small half-gourd cups.
But be careful – it’s definitely a wild night, and it could be difficult to catch a taxi back to Oaxaca. (Particularly with a taxi driver who has not been participating too heavily in the festivities!)
Comparsas: If you stay in town, there should be more nighttime comparsas. Check the festival schedule (in 2023 it was in Jalatlaco).
November 2: Comparsas, City and Zócalo
Some shops and restaurants might be closed this day, so that people can enjoy the day with their families. This was the most low-key day of the three, but after two late nights in a row, it was fine with me!
Visit the Panteon General for daytime cemetery celebrations if you haven’t yet experienced this.
Check out the Palacio de Gobierno: they usually have displays of altars from different villages around Oaxaca state. Then head to the zocalo for the last of the comparsas. I met a lot of kids “trick-or-treating” and gave out pesos since I didn’t have any candy!
Events continue for a few more days, and there are plenty of day trips in the area to get the most out of your Oaxaca experience.
How to Dress for Day of the Dead
As I mentioned earlier, Day of the Dead is not Halloween, so you shouldn’t show up in a Halloween-type costume. Scary, gory, or “sexy” costumes will look disrespectful and tone-deaf. Even a Day of the Dead costume from Party City is going to mark you as a tourist.
Just say no to anything sold in a bag!
What to Wear for Day of the Dead in Oaxaca
Women often wear flowy black or flowered dresses, or traditional Mexican embroidered dresses you can buy at the markets in Oaxaca. It’s common for people to get their faces painted for the festivities in Oaxaca City, but not for visiting cemeteries (it could be seen as disrespectful).
If you visit any of the local communities, please don’t wear costumes or face paint. Within the city, the holiday takes on a festival atmosphere; but in local communities, it is very much a spiritual and meaningful holiday.
Performers in the comparsas usually wear Victorian dress: lacy or ruffled gowns for women, old-fashioned suits or vests with a bow tie or lace cravat for men. Women often wear a flower crown like these that you can order online, and I loved seeing men in top hats!
I saw both men and women wearing black pants or jeans with leather jackets.
Sugar Skull Face Paint / Make-Up
Although there’s a lot of discussion on whether it’s cultural appropriation to wear “sugar skull” style make-up for Halloween, you will see artists throughout the city offering face paint for Día de los Muertos in Oaxaca. If you’re participating in the festival and making an effort to understand its traditions, no one in Oaxaca will question you joining in.
Look for artists offering maquillaje (make-up) in the zócalo, at beauty shops, or even hotels. They’ll have sample photos to choose from, or you can bring one along for inspiration.
Pro tip: Be sure to pack face wipes to remove your makeup, and wear a loose or button-down shirt for the application if you’ll change your clothes later (so you don’t mess up the artwork!).
One note: please don’t wear facepaint to a cemetery in the daytime or visit to a community outside Oaxaca. Save it for walking around the city or visiting San Augustin Etla, where wild costumes are the order of the day!
If you want a fresh flower headband, look for the flower market in the street behind the Mercado Benito Juarez on Calle Aldama. I searched all over and finally found sellers making them here for less than $5 with marigolds and cockscombs.
Other Dia de los Muertos “Do’s and Don’ts”
Just some more tips from me on being a good guest for this amazing cultural experience!
DO:
- Spend time wandering the city
- Look for altars and decorations in hotels, shops and public spaces
- Check out the local food and art scenes
- Get your face painted (but not for community visits)
- Talk to locals about their ofrendas and the loved ones they’re remembering
- Get permission before photographing people, especially in cemeteries
- Give pesos to performers. In the comparsas, one performer will often have a collection can for donations to a group or charity. Or you’ll encounter talented musicians throughout the city. Especially if you take photos or video, you should donate!
DON’T:
- Treat the celebration like Halloween or a trip to Las Vegas. It’s meant to celebrate and commune with family, not a holiday designed for tourists.
- Touch anything on altars or eat any of the food
- Step on graves or disturb them
- Take flash photos at cemeteries
- Take photos of people without permission, unless it’s a public performance (and even then, please don’t be a jerk)
Oaxaca Day of the Dead Experience
Oaxaca’s art, museums, unique cuisine, and friendly people make it a great destination year-round. But visiting during Day of the Dead is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The celebratory atmosphere of the city during Day of the Dead, coupled with the ambiance of candle-lit cemeteries, stays with you long after you depart.
Now anytime I smell marigolds, I’m immediately transported back. I hope you get to experience magical Dia de los Muertos in Oaxaca too!
Quick Tips on Where to Eat in Oaxaca
- Origén – the best meal (of many great meals) during my entire trip
- Cabuche – for a traditional Oaxacan soup called pozole
- Los Danzantes – one of the best rated restaurants in Oaxaca
- Casa Taviche – local favorite with personal service
Extend your trip!
Don’t miss my guides to all the top sights of Oaxaca City and its Pacific coast beaches.
More Oaxaca and Day of the Dead Resources:
- Que Pasa Oaxaca: a local arts, culture and events site
- Other must-see Dia de los Muertos celebrations in Mexico
Pin this Oaxaca Dia de los Muertos Guide for later or share with friends!
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